The Complete Guide To Snowboarding at Whistler Blackcomb
There's a reason why Whistler Blackcomb has been the number one ski resort in North America for several years running.
Olympic-level infrastructure. Glitz and glamour. Awe-inspiring natural beauty. Moisture from the Pacific Ocean shoots up the coastal mountains and drifts back down onto Whistler's peaks, often creating incredible snow conditions. What goes up must come down.
Whistler is also a transient place, like most resorts, but there's a core crew who go up and never quite come down. Ski patrollers who have been at it for 35 years; current and ex-pros in training; and over-qualified snowboard instructors who live and breathe the mechanics of a proper carve - these are the people who make Whistler what it is and give it its soul.
I first became obsessed with visiting Whistler Blackcomb when I found out they hosted glacier skiing. A visit was required to check off the "snowboard in the summer" item on my bucket list. Since my first pilgrimage to Whistler in 2004, I have returned dozens of times to visit close friends and reunite with old ones. One of my closest friends, a Whistler local for over 15 years, refuses to vacation at any other mountain. He considers it to be one of the best ski resorts in North America and the world.
I can't say I disagree with him, although I lean more towards Big White. Whistler is a much better place to live than Big White, though. The Whistler Village has just about everything one could need, and even outside of the "Whistler resort" there are still plenty of things to do besides snowboarding and skiing. There's snowshoeing, dog-sledding, ice skating, and a whole slew of cold-weather activities.
For those of you not living on the mountain, Whistler Blackcomb Ski Resort is only two-and-a-half hours from the Vancouver International Airport, and buses run between the two regularly.
Get it? Got it? Good. Now let’s talk terrain, lift tickets, dining, accommodations, and attractions. This is your expert guide to Whistler Blackcomb Ski Resort. Grab your board; it's time to start planning your next trip.
Table of Contents
History of Whistler Blackcomb Ski Resort
Whistler Blackcomb is two mountains: Whistler and Blackcomb. Makes sense now that I said it, right? But it wasn't always this way.
Whistler Resort opened in 1965 and Blackcomb was established in 1980. The two mountains competed throughout the '80s and '90s, which caused a sort of Cold War ski resort arms race. One mountain would install high-speed quads, so the other would install high-speed quads. One would open a section of new terrain, so the other would open even more skiable terrain.
Who won this war? Us. It meant millions of dollars improving the skiing and snowboarding experience at Whistler and Blackcomb mountains.
Hold up though. "Skiing and snowboarding" implies both were permitted when the mountains opened. But that’s not how it went down. Both mountains began with a ban on snowboarding. Snowboarding was a sport founded in opposition to the hills.
Blackcomb mountain was the first to welcome snowboarding in the 1987-88 season. The next season, Whistler ski resort followed suit and allowed snowboarding. One could argue that snowboarding’s foot in the door in B.C. was a product of the Whistler Blackcomb Cold War.
Eventually, Blackcomb Mountain was purchased by Intrawest, whose interest in the west was to develop timeshare condos at a popular winter destination. Then, in 1997, Intrawest bought Whistler ski resort, and the two resorts were brought into the Intrawest umbrella, creating the largest ski resort in Canada. Since then, the two mountains have been known as the Whistler Blackcomb Ski Resort.
Olympic Ambitions
Development on the mountain has also been driven by Whistler's ambitions to host the Winter Olympics, an ambition as old as the resort itself. In the '60s, Whistler Ski Resort was galvanized by a mission to host the 1972 Winter Olympics. The bid was eventually lost. It wasn't until after Whistler and Blackcomb united that they won their first bid. That partnership also won them "Best Ski Resort in North America" several years in a row by the early 2000s.
In 2010, Whistler achieved its ambition and won the bid. Development surged, resulting in the Peak 2 Peak gondola, the expansion of the sea-to-sky highway, and the Whistler Sliding Centre. Whistler hosted alpine skiing events at Whistler Creekside. At the Whistler Sliding Centre, they hosted luge and bobsled. The halfpipe and mogul events were relegated to another local Vancouver mountain.
Today, long after the Olympic games have left Whistler, visitors still benefit from this wave of development. Whistler is now rated a "Triple A" ski resort. To me, this means it is home to world-class ski terrain and infrastructure, but it doesn't come cheap. We pay for it in $200 lift tickets.
But beneath the well-polished Whistler hotels, the "Best Ski Resort in North America" awards, and tourist trap photo-ops, a resilient and diverse local culture runs deep. They're up there debating whether Whistler mountain or Blackcomb mountain is best. Some refuse to only ride Whistler, others Blackcomb. Some of them ride the resort as often as possible, some take advantage of the long winter season to access the legendary Whistler backcountry via snowmobile. It's this local culture that makes Whistler Blackcomb world-class, in my view.
For many Whistler locals, the purchase of Whistler Blackcomb by Vail Resorts in 2016 signified the beginning of a much harder life for them. Without getting into the controversy here (we'll do that in another article) out of respect for the Whistler locals that helped me assemble this article - I have intentionally left out some "hidden gems" and "best spots" that still follow the traditional vetting process before a new rider is brought to the terrain.
Getting to Whistler Blackcomb Ski Resort
The typical methods of getting to Whistler Blackcomb are listed below. Depending on where you're coming from and your mode of transportation, some may not apply to you. Skip those or swap them out if they don't fit.
Arrive at Vancouver International Airport (YVR)
Once you exit the aircraft and cross the secure doors of the terminal to get your bags, you'll travel down an escalator toward the baggage belts. The oversized baggage area (where your snowboard will be) is on the right. Once you've grabbed your bags, walk toward the elevator that is left of the exit doors, and travel up to the Sky Train level.
Hop on the Sky Train to catch your Epic Rides bus.
Hands down the best deal going to get to Whistler from Vancouver. For $43 (CAN) you can get a round trip from Vancouver to Whistler. It used to leave from the first stop on the Sky Train, where the casino is, but now picks up from Burrard Station (among others). That's cheaper than gas for most cars to get to-and-from Vancouver. It's a dope deal.
Epic Rides Alternatives
Evo Car Share Program: If you sign up ahead of time, these cars are scattered all around the city of Vancouver and can be taken out of town for a daily rate. Although they're more expensive than a standard rental car, they're a lot more flexible and available. You'll have to send them your driver's abstract, but there's no upfront membership fee, just a per-minute, per-hour, and per-day rate when you drive.
Standard rental car: If you want to do your own thing, the standard rental car route is an easy solution. The only downside to car rentals (or services like Turo) is that you'll likely be paying for your car to sit the whole time you are actually at the ski resort.
Whistler Blackcomb Statistics
Vertical Drop: 5280 ft
Number of ski runs: 200
Average snowfall: 35.5 ft per year
Skiable Terrain: 8,171 acres
Number of Lifts: 14
Opening date (winter season): Late November
Closing date: April or May depending on snow conditions
Best Runs at Whistler Mountain
For this guide, we'll be breaking out the best runs at Whistler Mountain and the best runs on Blackcomb. One of the benefits of all that Olympic money pouring into Whistler Blackcomb has been the Peak 2 Peak Gondola, which helps riders get from the peak of one mountain to the peak of the other within 15 minutes.
Whistler is thought of as an approachable and family-friendly ski hill. That doesn't mean there aren't heart-pumping descents for you adrenaline junkies - they're just blocked off from the beginner areas. For whatever riding experience you're after, Whistler will have something for you.
Best Beginner Run: Green Acres
Green Acres is a section of the lower area of Whistler mountain that is dedicated to forgiving slopes, wide runs, and easy on-and-off lifts. It's where the ski school does the majority of their beginner lessons, so it's a safe bet for those looking to take it slow. If you're looking for something easy but a little longer, try Upper Whiskey Jack into Lower Whiskey Jack, down through Upper Olympic, and Green Acres.
Best Tree Run: Ratfink
Accessed off the Emerald 6 Express chair, Ratfink is Whistler tree riding at its finest. It's a lot of fun on a fresh snow day. Ride the ridge down to Lower Ratfink and you'll be met with beautiful drops and well-spaced trees before being spat out right back at the bottom of the Emerald chair. Make sure you know what you're getting into, this is a black diamond and can be tricky if you aren't used to tree riding.
Best Terrain Park Run: Chipmunk Park
Don't let the cutesy name fool you, there are some large and XL features in this park. But its vibe is distinctly different than the Blackcomb mountain park. Creatively-built small and medium features are all over this park. It can be a great place to get your park legs back if you're a little rusty.
Best Difficult Run: Whistler Bowl
The Whistler Bowl, accessed via the Peak Express, is only for advanced skiers and snowboarders. Rider beware. If you're the first chair on a powder day, it will be an unforgettable experience. If you hit it any later than 10:30 am, it will become a bumpy ride because of the wet coastal snow Whistler typically receives. Be safe out there, and don't overestimate your ability, especially if you're not used to west coast skiing or snowboarding.
Best Runs at Blackcomb Mountain
Most of the locals I spoke with about this article prefer Blackcomb mountain over Whistler mountain. I'm sure this would upset a handful of locals, but I share this opinion. Whistler is more of an "easy access" version of Blackcomb. It's still got easy and intermediate slopes, but the park is bigger, the alpine is better, and maybe even the weather (or so some claim).
These favorites come with a heavy sense of bias, so don't rule either mountain out. Try it yourself and see what fits for you. Don't fall under the same trap as the locals by identifying with one over the other!
Best Beginner Run: Easy Out
Easy Out's often used as a warm-up and cool-down run to the bottom of Blackcomb. It's accessible from one of the main lift junctions on Blackcomb. The Peak 2 Peak Gondola, Blackcomb Gondola, Catskinner, and Jersey Cream Express all unite at the appropriately named Rendezvous Lodge.
Like Whistler's Green Acres, there is a learning zone filled with ski school students next to the Magic Chair at the bottom of the mountain. The main run is called "Yellow Brick Road," a mellow run with wide slopes like those at the bottom of Whistler. If you're staying anywhere in the upper village you'll likely take this run down to your hotel.
Best Tree Run: Arthurs Choice
Off the Crystal Ridge Express chair, accessed via Ridge Runner, Arthur's Choice is a black diamond tree run on one of the most eastern sections of Blackcomb. The trees are well-spaced and steep. Depending on weather conditions, you can have some fresh wind-loaded snow long after the last snowfall. There are lots of fun places to explore in these trees. Those who know, know.
Best Park Run: Choker Park
This isn't the legendary "Black Park," but it is a fantastic Medium and Large line through the Blackcomb mountains main park area. Choker Park is a great way to wake up the legs if you're looking to step into some of the larger terrain park features later in the day. Or it's great for challenging yourself to step up of your smaller tricks onto bigger features.
This park can be a really fun vibe. It's not uncommon to spot local pros like Mark McMorris or Darcy Sharpe or to see some 14-year-old kid you've never heard of stomp an insane trick. The highest-level riders tend to spend their time in the Blackcomb terrain parks.
Best Difficult Run: Sudan Couloir Extreme
Accessed via high-altitude traverse across a ridge off the 7th Heaven Express, Sudan Couloir Extreme can keep good snow hidden up its sleeves for days after the last snowfall. The drop-in and upper sections of this run are extremely steep, and should only be approached if you're confident in your edging and control in tight radius turns.
Best Hotels and AirBnBs at Whistler Ski Resort
Since a lot of the modernization of Whistler Blackcomb took place under Intrawest ownership, it's no wonder there are a seemingly endless amount of lodging options. From original Whistler hotels to unique AirBnBs, chalets, and even "pods," there's an option for everyone looking to find a place to stay after a long day on the mountain.
Best Budget Hotel: Pangea Pod Hotel
Probably the most Spartan option in the Whistler village, the Pangea Pod Hotel is pretty close to what you might imagine: you sleep in a pod. Like, the kind you'd hibernate in for space travel. If you're frugal but not claustrophobic, these pods are for you, especially if you're looking to spend most of your time on the mountain.
The pods are ideal for singles or cuddly couples. There's space to store your boots and board and a space for your clothes and personal items. Its close to the lifts makes so it's easy to hit the slopes in the morning, and its rooftop bar means you won't have to go far to enjoy a drink before bed.
Best Luxury Hotel: Four Seasons
Located at the bottom of the Blackcomb Gondola, Whistler Four Seasons offers the same luxurious consistency of the Four Seasons brand. The rooms aren't exceptional, so the main benefit is the additional amenities included at the hotel. On-site you'll find a restaurant, outdoor hot tubs with beverage service, and storage for your skis & snowboards.
Best Value Hotel: Aava
Dog friendly and near the heart of the village and main lifts, the Aava Hotel is the best bang-for-your-buck hotel in Whistler village. Aava has a variety of room styles. You can get a Queen bed with a pull-out couch, or a more standard two-bedroom suite. They are taking most reservations via phone while they upgrade some of their systems, which means you're more likely to find a room since most people only want to book online.
Unique Airbnb's
Located on Whistler's Creekside, this studio apartment is a five-minute walk from the gondola. It's close to Creekbread, one of the best pizza places in the Whistler valley. Creekside is a little quieter at night, but it requires a bus ride to get to the main village.
One of the only ski-in/ski-out places you can find on AirBnB, and the price reflects that. This luxurious apartment is in the Glacier Lodge development and includes heated floors, a salt-water pool, and a gym.
Most people reading this article probably can't afford this place (I sure can't), but I had to include it for its sheer insanity. It's a house so fancy it has its own name: "Esha." Included: eight bedrooms, 13 beds, a hot tub, a whiskey room, and a wine bar.
Maybe one day...
Best Restaurants in Whistler
Whistler and the surrounding area has a ton of great places to eat. From burritos to nachos, buffets to fine dining, if you aren’t planning on cooking in your hotel room there are plenty of options to choose from.
Best Quick Breakfast: Wildwood Cafe
Located in Function Junction, one of the first intersections as you hit the Whistler municipality - the Wildwood Cafe & Catering Co has hands-down the best breakfast in town. From breakfast wraps to incredible eggs benedict (I don't take this recommendation lightly, I'm very picky with my hollandaise sauce) can all be found here. Worth checking out whether you're staying in the area or not.
Best Apres Ski:
Thankfully, there is no shortage of options for Apres-Ski spots in Whistler Village. I've included a few options below depending on the crowd and vibe you're looking for:
Longhorns: Located at the bottom of the Whistler Village Gondola and the Blackcomb Excalibur Gondola, this place can get pretty rowdy - especially in the springtime. Good if you're looking for a younger crowd.
Dusty's Bar & BBQ: Rowdy not your jam? Dusty's is a laid-back joint located at the bottom of the Creekside Gondola. If you're lucky you can catch a live performance by the Hairfarmers, a locally famous cover band that plays only songs you'll recognize. Being at the bottom of Creekside, it's an older, chiller crowd.
Garibaldi Lift Co. Bar & Grill: If you're looking for an older après-ski but you don't want to venture out to Creekside, check out Garibaldi Lift Co, located directly at the bottom of the Whistler Village Gondola. Keep an eye out for their comedy nights, and if you're there in the spring then the patio is killer.
Best Pub: Stinky's Pub
Located deep in the pedestrian village, "Stinky's on the Stroll" is a classic sports pub. It's a cozy venue that hosts a variety of events, from trivia night to karaoke - and usually has great deals on food and drinks. The overhead sign can be easy to miss, so keep your eyes peeled. If you go, try out their pulled pork tacos.
Best Fine Dining: Rim Rock Cafe
One of the best fine-dining experiences in the Whistler Valley, the Rim Rock Cafe is located in the heart of the village and is part of the Fairmont Chateau Whistler. Atmosphere? Cozy and inviting. Seafood and steaks? Incredible. Desserts? Some of the best in town.
Hidden Gems in Whistler
Best Parking: Lot 4 and 5
Parking lots 4 and 5 are located just off Lorimer road. They give you the easiest access to the lifts in the morning. If you arrive early, then you can usually park at the far edges of the lot to get easy entry and exit. Lots for 4 and 5 are also common places for campervan pirates to push their luck with overnight parking. But be careful, tow truckers in Whistler are ruthless.
Best Overnight Parking: Whistler RV Park and Campground
Open year-round, the Whistler RV Park and Campground is the best legal option for people traveling via campervan or RV. It's an excellent choice for anyone hoping to be a little closer to nature. This popular overnight camping spot is south of the main ski area, but it gives near-direct access to Brandywine, a popular backcountry access point.
Unique Locations
Train Wreck: In the 1950s, a train overloaded with lumber derailed. They pulled the derailed train cars away from the still-operational tracks, and today they still remain, an historic spectacle buried in Whistler's old-growth forests. It's better to check this out once the snow in the valley has melted and the trail to access the train wreck is easier to walk.
Blackcomb Glacier lookout: One of the main attractions, even for visitors who have no interest in skiing, is the Blackcomb Glacier Lookout. The Horstman Glacier is host to skiers and snowboarders during the summer months. Camp of Champions once had an entire section of the glacier dedicated to them in the summer. During the main ski season, it acts as a kind of access point to the most difficult areas of Blackcomb.
Peak to Creek for beautiful views: The Whistler Creekside base is an underrated area of the resort. Boasting beautiful views, early bird weekend warriors can park underground at the Creekside base, grab a coffee at the nearby bakery, then head up the Creekside Gondola and eventually Big Red Express to get to the main area of Whistler mountain.
If you're staying or parked at the Creekside base, make the effort to get to the peak of Whistler at the end of the day. From there, you'll be treated to one of the most beautiful leg-burning top-to-bottom runs in British Columbia, which begins by circling the Whistler and West Bowls, and eventually drops down to the base of the Creekside gondola.
Off-Hill Activities
Unfortunately, Whistler Blackcomb does not offer night skiing. Although it was initially part of the "Renaissance" development plan, it appears to have been traded in for an upgrade to the Creekside Gondola and Big Red Express. I've run into similar frustrations at my childhood resort Mont Tremblant.
My theory is that the resort wants you off the hill and spending money in the village as much as possible. Or, as the resort will likely put it, night skiing damages the trails and takes valuable grooming time away from manicuring the largest ski resort in North America.
By the way, to be clear, Whistler Blackcomb is the largest ski resort in North America. Most articles you find on the internet will tell you that Park City is, but that's simply not true. When Whistler resort merged with Blackcomb, they put this to rest. Don't listen to the haters.
Whatever the reason, as with most triple-A ski resorts, Whistler does not offer any terrain for night skiing. So here are a few things you can do with your evenings if you still have energy after your day on the slopes:
Escape Room: Just a stone's throw away from the village, Escape! Whistler offers a unique and fun activity. With six different immersive escape rooms to choose from, it's perfect for groups or solo adventurers alike. The place is extremely well done with top-notch puzzles that will keep you entertained for hours.
Mongolie grill: For a unique dining experience, hit Mongolie Grill. You'll be treated to an interactive DIY stir-fry. It's perfect for large groups. Customize your order with endless sauces, meats, vegetables, and other toppings. Then sit back and watch it be cooked in front of you on their giant flat-top grill.
Movie Theatre: Whistler's Village 8 Cinema is the only movie theatre in town and it features some great films. It even has an arcade for after your flick of choice. It's a great place to keep warm and entertained on a cold winter day.
Whistler Heli-Skiing: Since heli-skiing is technically 'off-mountain' I've included it here. If you're feeling adventurous and have the pocketbook for it, check out Whistler Heli Skiing. It's the ultimate backcountry experience. You can ski or snowboard untouched powdery snow with amazing views of glaciers and other mountain peaks. This experience will, as Berlin put it, take your breath away.
Final thoughts
My love for Whistler Blackcomb runs deep. One of my best friends has lived there for more than half his life. My black-sheep ski-bum uncle has been a Whistler local for more than 40 years. British Columbia, and Whistler especially, have represented the promised land for snowboard pilgrims in search of truth through powder.
Initially drawn by the abnormal ski season (November to May, then July to August), I fell in love with the variety of terrain. At the time, lift passes for glacier riding were around $60, which I thought was outrageous. These days, lift passes are closer to $200. Whistler will never bore you, no matter how long you ride for.
Whistler should be on your bucket list. It's one of the more intense ski resorts in North America. But it's also one of the resorts I'm visiting less frequently in recent years. Lodging and lift passes have increased significantly in cost, and, despite the vast amounts of terrain you have access to, there is still only so much riding you can do in a day for $210.
When I look at that from a "cost per run" perspective and consider the length of the lift lines, it causes me to question whether the value is there. There's tons of acreage, terrain, and vertical drops - but are they worth $20 per run? Tough to enjoy all of that acreage when you're standing in lines all day. That's why, compared to ski resorts in the British Columbia interior like Sun Peaks or Big White, I think there's more value elsewhere.
In summary, if you're in the demographic who doesn't first ask "how much does it cost?" when looking into heli-skiing, Whistler is the place for you. Whistler, in line with its triple-A ski resort peers, becomes more like our modern world every day - fantastic to be at if you're cost insensitive, but hard to be at if you are.